Our original hangboard offers training rail progression for systematic finger training. The board is designed to be used by intermediate to advanced climbers looking to increase finger strength.
The training edge will be the edge predominantly used by most climbers. For those climbers unable to hold their body weight solely by their fingertips, consider the use of assistance by either putting a foot down or using a tension band to reduce the weight held by the fingers until eventually you progress to hanging without assistance.
When training it is essential to warm up properly. Because this activity requires full body engagement, warm up the whole body including the fingers. An example of a warm up routine is provided under in the “Train, Simply: Warm Up” article.
When beginning to hang, here are a few criteria you should take note of:
- Hangs should be anywhere from 5-10 seconds. These lengths seem to produce the best recruitment for developing finger strength.
- Begin using the largest edge (19mm) on the training rail for 7 seconds, if:
a) At the end of 7 seconds you barely hang on, that’s just about right
b) At the end of 7 seconds you’re still easily hanging on move to the 15mm edge
c) You can’t make the desired length of time then consider using assistance
- If you are easily hanging for 7 seconds on both the 19mm and 15mm edges, move back to the 19mm edge and add weight until you are only just barely making the 7 second mark
- Once you can achieve 7 seconds easily on the 19mm edge with weight, move to the 15mm edge with the same weight and continue to cycle from the 19mm edge to the 15mm edge adding weight to achieve the desired hang time
The safest grip position is the half crimp with a 90-degree bend at the second (middle) phalange. The other position is the open crimp where the bend is at the first phalange.
You can train different positions when starting to feel strong in one position. Other ways to make hangs more difficult include moving from 4 fingers per hand to 3 fingers, to 2 fingers, etc. when starting to feel strong in groupings of four.
Form and Rest Periods
It is essential that proper form be executed for each hang – shoulders back and set, arms slightly bent.
Rest periods are a suggestion and by no means the rule. If you need more time between hangs to perform them properly, take it, or consider using assistance.
Next up Train, Simply: Warm Up